Simple And Effective Hangboard Workout For Beginners


Hangboard training is one of the most effective ways to build finger and hand strength. Don’t worry if you cannot train at a climbing gym because just two or three workouts per week can give you great results. All you need is a bit of motivation and a hang board.

Even if doing a full hangboard workout may seem impossible to you, it is quite manageable. In this article, we will walk you through the basics of handboard training and provide you with a sample workout you can try. Let’s begin!

Hangboard Workout Guide

For the hangboard training to be effective, you need to spend at least 30 minutes doing the exercises. It is enough to repeat them two or three times a week. Make sure you always keep good form to avoid injury. Besides, always use an open-handed grip and avoid crimping.

It is important to begin each workout session with a warm-up that targets all muscle groups. For example, you could try jumping rope or taking a quick run. Also, you can add a few pull-ups as well as finger stretches. Don’t do pull-ups using small holds because you will be putting your body at risk for injury. Instead, use a bar or the board’s jugs.

Many climbers do just fine without incorporating hangboard training, but there are a few climbing areas that will most certainly benefit from it. If you have always felt like you could improve your finger strength, then using a hangboard might be a good idea.

Furthermore, using a handboard can help you get over the fear of small holes and overhangs. Also, if you have been stuck on a plateau for a long time, hangboard workouts may take your training to a whole new level.

Hangboarding is one of the best techniques to increase upper body power and grip strength. In case your genetics aren’t exactly great for climbing, it is necessary to incorporate this kind of training to reach your full climbing potential. So, put your climbing shoes into your climbing backpack and get going!

How to Prevent Injuries During Hangboard Workout

If you are doing a wrong hangboarding technique, that means you are putting your body at risk. Here are 6 tips that can help you prevent hangboard training injuries:

1. Don’t Do a Full Crimp

There are 3 main types of climbing grips – open hand, half crimp, and full crimp. However, you should only be using the first two types to avoid injury. Half crimp is most suitable for beginners. If you are having more than one hangboarding session a week, it is a good idea to have one session with each type of grip every week. 

If you choose to do the full crimp, you will be putting your body at risk of injury. That is why it is important to realize what the best option for your fingers, arms, and shoulders is. Keep practicing until you find the perfect position. 

2. Retract Your Shoulders

You should always lock down your shoulders when doing any hanging exercise. Make sure the shoulders are not hanging up your ears. Instead, place them down and away from your ears. However, you should never retract your shoulders too far. 

Bear in mind that you shouldn’t arch your back and activate your chest. A slightly bent elbow is a result of correctly activated muscles. It is always a good idea to ask someone whether your form is good. You could ask your workout buddy for help or someone else in the gym.

Proper form will ensure you avoid any risk of injury as well as make it easier to achieve progress. It is always better to do fewer exercises with good form than spend a lot of time doing them incorrectly. Start slow and gradually increase your reps as you find the best way to perform the exercises.

3. Warm-Up

A proper hangboarding warm-up consists of three things: cardio, dynamic stretching, and easy strength-building movements such as jugs, pull-ups, and low-grade climbs.

Your body needs at least 15 minutes of warm-up before a handboard workout. If you feel like your fingers and muscles need more warming up, feel free to extend the warm-up to 30 minutes. You can do short hangs or easy climbs in that case.

Avoid starting your workout session if you feel like your body is not ready. Never force anything to avoid the risk of injury. Also, it is important to find out what kind of warm-up feels good on your body, so try experimenting until you find the perfect routine. 

4. Warm Down

Every hangboarding session should end with some kind of warm down. Joints in your fingers are very delicate and they don’t have great amounts of blood flow during normal daily activities. So, you need to make sure that lactic acid is cleared before they cool down.

If you don’t warm down after a hangboard session, your forearms and fingers may feel extra stiff and heavy next time you work out. This state can also make you more prone to injury, so make sure you don’t skip this important step.

When you are done with your hangboard workout, take some time to do low-level cardio and easy climbing for 5-15 minutes. Alternately, you can try jump-roping since it is a very effective blood-pumping exercise.

5. Stretch

A good warm down session is not complete without stretches. There are two main kinds of stretches: static and dynamic. Dynamic stretches should be incorporated into your warm-up routine, while you should use static stretches to warm down. 

Dynamic stretches increase blood flow, loosen the joints, and decrease the risk of injury. They include wrist circles, torso twists, lunges, etc. Any exercise that doesn’t put stress on your joints but uses its movement range is a good dynamic stretch. 

Static stretches intend to place the joints into the end of their movement range. Holding them there and then slowly letting them ease further is the right way to do these kinds of stretches. Make sure you don’t do these stretches before or during your warm-up session.

You should hold each static stretch for 30 seconds and try to complete 3 or 4 sets after a hangboard workout. It is important to stretch all parts of your fingers and forearms. For example, you could place your hands in a prayer position, and then press the back of the hands into the ground.

6. Avoid Advancing Too Fast

Bear in mind that it takes at least two months before you can notice a significant improvement in your hangboarding skills. To achieve the best possible results, try switching your mindset. Start looking at handboarding as something that is going to facilitate climbing, just like climbing chalk or climbing harness

If you have a lot of climbing experience but you have never tried hangbarding, it may be a good idea to test out less positive or thinner edges. Don’t focus on pushing yourself because even relatively easy hangboard training can lead to big improvements. 

8-Week Handboard Workout Plan

Even though many variations and options, your first hangboard workout does not have to be a complicated one. Here is an easy but effective 8-week workout plan that will create the foundation for more intense training sessions:

There are two hangboard sessions every week. Bear in mind that you should be well-rested before the workout. Also, always make sure you do a proper warm-up. Choose holds that you can hang from with proper form for 10 seconds but struggle or even fail by 15 seconds.

Week 1

  • 10 seconds hang
  • 30 seconds rest
  • Repeat the steps for 4 reps total
  • 2-minute rest
  • Repeat everything for 3 reps total

Week 2

  • Repeat the steps for Week 2, making sure you get 4 reps total

Week 3

  • Repeat the steps for Week 2, making sure you get 4 reps total

Week 4

  • Repeat the steps for Week 2, making sure you get 5 reps total

Week 5

  • 10 seconds hang
  • 20 seconds rest
  • Repeat the steps for 4 reps total
  • 2-minute rest
  • Repeat the previous steps for 3 sets total

Week 6-7

  • Repeat the steps for Week 5, making sure you get 4 sets total

Week 8

  • Repeat the steps for Week 5, making sure you get 5 sets total



Q: How Often Should You Hangboard?


Generally, you should aim at 2 to 3 hangboard workout sessions a week. This is a great way to stimulate the adaptation of the tissue. If you can’t climb so frequently, it is recommended to do it 1-2 days per week, and also add a short hangboard workout 1-2 times a week. Make sure you don’t do a full crimp. 

Q: How Much Is Hangboard Training?


Hangboard training is one of the best ways to build finger and hand strength. It is especially important if you don’t have access to a climbing gym. Two or three workouts lasting for at least 30 minutes can give you excellent results.  It is very important to keep proper form while you’re exercising as well as warm up.

Q: What Does a Hangboard Do?


The hangboard is also known as the fingerboard and is very popular among climbers. It is a training tool that serves to strengthen the weakest body parts – the fingers. Even though hangboards are very effective, they can be misused as well as overused. That is why it is important to remain proper form and find balance in training.

Q: What Hangboard Does Alex Honnold Use?


Alex Honnold religiously works out on the Beastmaker 2000 hangboard. It is actually mounted onto the doorway of the ProMaster. Honnold is one of the most inspiring climbers of today’s free climbing generation. You can read more about his climb without a climbing rope in ‘The Impossible Climb’, which is considered one of the best climbing books out there.

Q: What is the Best Hangboard?


The ideal hangboard should be made from quality material in order to prevent injury. Also, it should have a wide variety of grip options, as well as an adjustable width to fit everyone’s needs. In addition, the ideal hangboard should be lightweight so you can easily transport it if you need to. Some good handboards also come with friction control.

Q: What is Hangboard Training?


Hangboard workout is one of the most effective ways to increase the strength of your fingers. Hangboarding can help you achieve greater results in climbing, as well as increase your overall strength. Many climbers practice hangboarding when they want to prepare for more difficult climbs. Typically, hangboarding sessions should be done for at least 30 minutes, 2-3 times a week.

Q: How Do You Warm Up a Hangboard?


Start by dynamically warming up your fingers. If you have access to a campus board, you could climb up and down. Move to the hangboard and try to target the grips and the finger positions that you will be using in your workout. Progressively go to smaller holds, and move back up if you are not ready to move on.

Globo Surf Overview

Hangboard training is very effective when it comes to strengthening your fingers and improving your overall climbing ability. Even though it may seem a kind of challenge, it is very manageable. All you need is a little bit of motivation and discipline to perfect your climbing skills and get additional climbing benefits.

It is enough to do repeat your hangboarding routine two to three times a week for at least 30 minutes. Make sure you don’t do a full crimp and maintain the proper form. It is crucial to retract your shoulders as well as warm-up and warm-down properly to avoid injuries. Stretches are also important as well as not moving on too fast.

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My name is David Hamburg. I am an avid water sports fan who enjoys paddle boarding, surfing, scuba diving, and kite surfing. Anything with a board or chance I can get in the water I love! I am such a big fan I decided to start this website to review all my favorite products and some others. Hope you enjoy!