For beginning rock climbers, dyno climbing is quite complicated. Pushing off a wall, flying through the air, catching the entire body with what will most likely be a simple latch, and holding a big swing requires a lot of power and coordination.
While most beginners write off climbing dyno as a circus trick, knowing how to generate the necessary strength and do the big moves is extremely important for climbing hard routes and boulders. Dynamic moves allow climbers to skip blank rock sections and save energy since they spend less time trying to grip on tiny holds.
For climbers who are vertically challenged, dynamic moves allow them to reach holds that require the jump move. In this guide, we will make climbing less physically taxing and more efficient by showing you everything you need to know about climbing dyno.
Step by Step Guide on How to Do Dyno Climbing
1. Launch Preparation
Before you attempt the jump, you should take some time to understand the mechanics of the dyno you intend to attempt. Map out your body’s trajectory in your head, taking the direction of gravity into account – gravity will pull you down while soaring through the air.
Vertical terrain is generally simpler, with the force of gravity pulling you straight down at the jump’s maximum height. On steeper terrain, however, you will have to jump up and then out, meaning that your path will look like a curve. This means that you will need to stay closer to the climbing wall through the jump.
Part of the launch preparation is planning where your spotters and crash pads should be, keeping in mind that you will not land directly below the target hold if you miss it. Instead, you will land a couple of feet out from your selected spot.
If it is possible, feel your target hold to familiarize yourself with how latching to it feels before dyno climbing. Hanging from the hold should help you gauge the true distance between the climbing holds.
To set up for climbing dyno, you have to find your power stance. Your hands and feet should be in an optimal spot for you to get maximum output for the blastoff.
Keep in mind that you will be leveraging your start holds to gain momentum. Hence, your hands should feel solid on the respective climbing holds throughout the jump, until you let go.
You will need straight arms and high feet for a successful dyno after donning your climbing shoes and climbing gloves. Straight arms act as a lever to slingshot your body upward. Avoid bending your arms to pull up and through your dyno – this defeats the jump’s purpose.
High feet give you the most power. You can try various foot positions. However, they should never be so high such that you feel scrunched up. The sweet spot varies for everyone due to the arm span, leg length, and individual height – experiment with varying hand and feet placements to find what feels okay for the climbing technique.
Dynamic moves engage multiple groups of climbing muscles in less than a second. This requires both explosive power and thoughtful technique.
A climbing dyno starts with the most powerful muscles – the legs. On vertical terrain, you should think about pushing into the feet to drive the body up. On the steeps, you should focus on pushing your body up and slightly outwards.
The legs provide the spring while the arms pivot around the starting hold. You should, therefore, focus only on pushing from the legs and not the arms. Drop down to the lowest point of the power stance, funnel energy into pushing with the legs, and then explode up quickly while ensuring your arms stay straight.
When you reach the peak of the push, let go with the hands and then smoothly move them up to reach for your target hold. It helps to keep the hands close to the body when you are moving them up.
4. Hold the Swing
Very little swing results form a vertical dyno since the angle is straight up. On roofs and steep sections, however, the jump’s angle can cause the lower body to swing way out from the wall once you latch the hold. This more horizontal position is usually dangerous, with a potential of a climbing fall resembling the belly flop.
To mitigate massive swings and improve your climbing safety, keep your core engaged throughout your move. Once you contact the hold, try tightening up again.
Avoid fighting the swing. Encourage the swing by arching your back and allowing the legs to move backward with momentum. At this point, pulling up with the arms might be helpful – this can provide a better and more positive grip on your finish hold while helping engage the core more. Once the swing reaches the apex, simply snap your lower body and core forward and back into the rock.
While most climbers naturally lead with 1 hand during the jump, an important technique is to purposely latch the target hold with 1 hand, then bring your other hand up, right after to match and help with holding the swing.
5. Flight Pattern
Some dynos do allow climbers to keep 1 hand or foot on the start hold. However, all-points-off dynos require the climber to remove both feet and both hands from the rock. Irrespective of the type of dyno you are doing, it is crucial that you keep the core tight and engage al limbs so that you can move through the air like a compact package without wildly flailing.
This should help you keep one of your feet on down low whenever possible, help you avoid an unexpected swing when you latch the hold, and keep the entire body in control when you are flying through the air. When flying through the air, you must keep your eyes on the finishing hold. This will help improve coordination and offer the body a consistent target.
Dyno Climbing Tips
By following the steps above, executing a dyno should be possible. With the tips below, you should be able to avoid common mistakes:
Break It Down
Whether climbing in the gym or outside, every dyno will be different. Although it all boils down to 1 quick jumping motion, every dyno will have its cruxes and easier qualities. Breaking down a dyno and figuring out the easiest and hardest parts is important. By focusing on the harder parts, the chances of succeeding increase.
Your Hips Should Help with Weight Transfer
To succeed in dynamic movement, you will need correct weight transfer from your legs and feet to your upper body. The hips are important to this weight transfer.
Twisting your hips either direction into the climbing wall should keep the body closer on the overhands. This should help you transfer weight more efficiently. The push will begin in your feet, the momentum moves through your hips and then you jump.
If you just started using your climbing pants and climbing ropes – meaning you are new to dynos – you will probably have issues executing particular moves. If this is the case, consider recording yourself and watching the moves in slow motion. This should help you understand the dyno’s mechanics and where you need to make improvements.
Q: What Does Dyno Mean in Rock Climbing?
Dyno refers to a climbing move in which a rock climber jumps or moves dynamically from one hold to another. Allowing climbers to skip blank rock sections and save energy, dynos make climbing less taxing and more efficient.
Q: What is a Double Dyno?
Double dyno involves using 2 hands to catch a target hold. Normally, most climbers use 1 hand to catch their target hold. However, using 2 hands (the double dyno) makes holding big swings or sticking marginal holds easier.
Q: How Do You Train A Dyno Climber?
The best way to learn dyno climbing is to practice in the gym where risks of fatal falls are minimal. Simply find a free part of the climbing wall and practice jumping from 1 hold to the other.
Q: Is Dyno Tuning Safe?
When done right, dyno tuning is safe. It makes dynamic movements much easier, allowing the climber to latch at holds and avoid too much swinging. Tuning makes the dyno more efficient and effective even on tough boulders and steep routes.
Globo Surf Overview
Well-executed dynos are fluid and graceful, with the legs and arms synchronized perfectly during the take-off, the flight, and the landing. To get to a point where dyno climbing feels natural, you have to practice. Armed with the steps outlined above, climbing dyno should be easier for you.