Climbing shoes are one of the most iconic pieces of apparel associated with the sport, the one that will let everyone aromaybend you immediately identify you as a climber. The best trad climbing shoes become such an integral part of your adventures in the mountains that even simply putting them on can get all your senses tingling in anticipation, visualizing what lies ahead.
Aside from the sentimental reasons, the best shoes for trad climbing are a crucial part of any serious climber’s bag. They allow your feet to hold on to walls where they normally could not, and are shaped in such a way to let you get the maximum amount of leverage. In this article we will take you through the top-rated shoes for trad climbing, so you can choose your equipment wisely and have the confidence you need on the wall.
OUR TOP PICK
La Sportiva TC Pro Trad Climbing Shoes
- What Makes These Trad Climbing Shoes Stand Out
- Excellent grip
- Very tough build
- Allows feet to breathe while climbing
- Stays comfortable even after long hours
Sizes: 36 to 46 including half sizes
Upper: Suede leather
Sole: Vibram XS Edge 4mm
Weight: 530 grams per pair, size 39
EDITORS CHOICE
Mad Rock Shark Trad Climbing Shoes
- What Makes These Trad Climbing Shoes Stand Out
- Aggressive profile
- Easy to use slip-on design
- Provides excellent sensitivity
- Very good non-slip rubber on sole
Sizes: 3 to 13
Upper: Syn-flex
Sole: Science Friction 3.0, R2 rand dubber
Profile: aggressive
BEST VALUE
La Sportiva Mythos Trad Climbing Shoes
- What Makes These Trad Climbing Shoes Stand Out
- Extremely versatile, good for a variety of scenarios
- Very comfortable
- Unique up to the toe laces
- Adapts to the foot shape
Sizes: 33 to 48 including half sizes
Upper: Suede leather
Sole: Vibram XS Edge 4 mm
Weight: 510 grams per pair, size 39
Butora Altura Trad Climbing Shoes
- What Makes These Trad Climbing Shoes Stand Out
- A strong, stiff shoe
- Aggressive profile
- Protected eyelets
- Very effective edge
Sizes: 4 to 14 including half sizes
Upper: Leather
Sole: Butora proprietary rubber
Weight: 720 grams per pair
SCARPA Chimera Trad Climbing Shoes
- What Makes These Trad Climbing Shoes Stand Out
- Built for power
- Asymmetric lacing
- Excellent sticky sole
- Reinforced insole
Sizes: 34.5 to 45 including half sizes
Upper: Textile
Sole: Vibram XS Grip2
Weight: 550 grams per pair, size 40
How To Choose Trad Climbing Shoes – Buying Guide
Fit
One of the most crucial aspects you need to look for in a pair of climbing shoes is a good fit. This is the only way that your feet will work at their absolute maximum, providing you with all the power and stability you can muster. Traditional climbing shoes, in particular, are designed to give your feet a little more space and are not as aggressively downturned as other models. Don’t let this fool you however, they still need to fit tight and snug around your feet, so try them on and make sure you like them before you head out.
Size
Your everyday shoe size is a good starting point to determine what size you need for your trad climbing shoes. Manufacturers also provide detailed size charts to allow you to make the best decision when looking at their models online. Don’t be alarmed if your shoes feel a little tight despite being the right size, since this is what they are supposed to do to let you get the most out of your feet.
Related Post: Climbing Shoe Sizing
Comfort
While climbing is not on the top of anyone’s list when you talk about comfort, manufacturers have tried to add features to their shoes to help you stay comfy on the wall. Especially with trad shoes, which you end up wearing for hours on end, there are several models which incorporate padding to protect your feet and ankles. Also included are moisture-wicking abilities to help keep your feet as dry as possible and avoid blisters.
Durability
Trad climbing shoes are tough, and they need to be. They are constantly faced with hard, sharp rocks and they have to be up to the challenge, which is why manufacturers use only the strongest materials such as leather and rubber to construct them. Don’t choose shoes made from anything else than the best materials, or you’ll regret it when you get on the wall.
Weight
When climbing, every additional gram matters as any extra weight will slow you down on your ascent, so you want all of your gear, from helmets to backpacks to harnesses, to be as lightweight as possible. This cannot, however, be at the expense of durability and toughness, since talso featuretures you cannot be without. Don’t be fooled by shoes that are too light to be true, because they probably are, and despite wanting to stay as light as possible it may be better to bring on a few extra grams if it makes the whole experience much safer.
Sole
Another crucial element of trad climbing shoes is the sole, as it is the part that comes directly in contact with the rock and has to provide grip. Soles are made from rubber or other high-tech, synthetic materials, all of which are designed solely to help you CG onto the side of the mountain as best you can. Different soles can be more or less stiff, and this will let you hold on to smaller holds for longer at the expense of some sensitivity, so it’s up to you to try and find the balance that suits you best.
Material
The uppers of trad climbing shoes have to be strong and durable, but unlike the sole, they also need to allow some air to get in touch with your feet to let them breathe. You will find uppers made from a variety of different materials ranging from leather to textile and to synthetic. All of these provide excellent durability with leather being the most breathable, while synthemaybeay be even tougher but risk leaving you with feet dampened by sweat.
Closure System
Most trad climbing shoes can be closed with laces since these provide the best way to customize the fit for the shape of your feet. Some models, however, can be closed with a velcro strap so they might be more useful if you don’t want to waste time tying laces with pumped fingers.
FAQs
Q:Â What Does Trad Mean In Climbing?
Traditional or “trad” climbing means that the group of climbers that ascend the wall place all the gear required for the ascent themselves and remove it when they are finished, without using existing bolts in the walls or placing new ones.
Q:Â What Is The Difference Between Sport And Traditional Climbing?
Traditional climbing is the first thing that pops in your mind when you think about climbing and is a physical and mental game of man versus mountain that can sometimes take several days. Sport climbing, on the other hand, is more focused on speed and physical strength rather than epic ascents, and can even be done in a simple rock gym.
Q:Â How Do I Start Trad Climbing?
Like most other activities, the best way to get into trad climbing is to sign up for a course. Maybe having a more experienced friend that can show you some tricks or lend you some gear can help, but pretty soon you'll realize that it's mostly about a lot of practice and determination.
Globo Surf Overview
Climbing shoes are the centerpiece of any trad climbing ascent, but the options on the market are many and can quickly become confusing. In our trad climbing shoes reviews, we have shown you the ones that, in our opinion, stand out from the rest. Following our guide, you can choose your gear with care, and hit the walls with the confidence you need.
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