Part of the thrill of climbing comes from the fact that the sport is potentially dangerous. As any adrenaline lover knows, you never feel more alive when you are confronted with risk, and climbing is an excellent example of that. Danger, however, does not mean foolishness, and any climber who is worth their salt will have extensive knowledge of all the tools and security measures you can take on the wall.
The best quickdraws are going to be part of any serious climber’s toolbox since they are the piece of gear that connects you to the rope that is your lifeline. The idea behind them is simple, yet there are numerous different options on the market which might confuse. In this article we’ll take you through the best climbing quickdraws on the market, so you can understand how to choose this fundamental piece of equipment.
How To Choose Quickdraws – Buying Guide
The quality of the materials that make up your quickdraws will be the source of their strength or their weakness, so they must be able to hold up to the toughest of challenges. As is the case with many sports, or indeed even in activities such as flying, the compromise that manufacturers strive to reach is the one between strength and weight. For this reason, as is the case with airplanes, most carabiners will be made with hot-forged aluminum. Aluminum is the lightest of all metals, yet it possesses considerable strength, which makes it an excellent candidate for this kind of thing. When hot forged, this metal acquires some characteristics that put it on par with steel, which is slightly stronger but much heavier.
The other part of the quickdraw that needs to be strong is the sling, or dogbone, that connects the two carabiners. These are made by layers and layers of fabric that are closely knit together to become one individual layer that multiplies their strength.
The best materials to make dogbones are nylon, polyester, or UHMW polyethylene. These letters stand for “ultra-high-molecular-weight” polyethylene and indicate the lightest and narrowest material of the three. The best climbing quickdraws will often feature these dogbones, which are made by brands such as Dyneema, Spectra, or Dynex, which you have probably seen mentioned in our quickdraws reviews.
Type Of Climbing
As experienced climbers know, not every piece of gear will work with any climbing situation, and the same goes for quickdraws. Generally, they fall into two wide categories: the ones for traditional climbing and the ones for sport climbing. The difference between the two styles is that in traditional climbing the climbers themselves are the ones who install the removable protection, while sport climbing uses bolts that are already drilled into the rock. Traditional climbers need to carry more gear, so they tend to prefer skinnier draws that take up less space and weigh less. The carabiners on these quickdraws usually have a wire gate, but we’ll talk more about that later.
Those more interested in sport climbing tend to focus on ease of clipping and durability, so they can choose a wider dogbone, that can also be made by some less durable material, and a bent carabiner gate. Many quickdraws are not as specific as the kinds we have just described, however. Beginners who have not yet decided which climbing style they prefer might want to start with a more all-around option before confining themselves to one particular climbing style.
There are three different types of carabiner gates that you will encounter when you pick up a quickdraw. These are straight, bent, or wire gates, and all have their strengths and weaknesses.
A straight gate is the easiest to imagine and features a solid hinged piece of metal with a groove that fits into the main carabiner body. These quickdraws have no edges for the rope to catch on, which may be a deal maker for some. A bent gate carabiner works in the same way, but the piece of metal that swings open or closed is not straight. These kinds of carabiners are only found on the rope end of a quickdraw, and their main advantage is the very easy clipping they allow.
Finally, we have the wire gate carabiners, in which the movable part is made from a sprained loop of stainless steel. This is a very simple and effective way of opening a carabiner. Furthermore, wire gate carabiners are likely to freeze shut in cold conditions. The flip side though is that this closing mechanism generates a bump on the inside of the carabiner where ropes have been known to get snagged. Some manufacturers, however, have come up with ingenious solutions to prevent this from happening, making wire gate carabiners just as reliable as straight or bent ones.
Finally, since quickdraws are made up of two separate carabiners, combinations are also common and can let you benefit from the best of both worlds.
The lengths of your dogbone (or slings connecting the biners) can have a profound effect on your climbing experience, so you need to consider which ones you are taking with you before you start your ascent. Shorter slings, which range between 10 and 12 cm in length, are very good if the route you’re taking is pretty straight and doesn’t present too great challenges. If you want to reduce rope drag, however, it is recommended to choose longer slings, stretching up to 17 or 18 cm.
These will inevitably be slightly heavier but work much better for longer routes. Depending on your climbing situation, you will have to choose which ones suit you best, but a lot will also depend on your experience or simply personal preference. If you’re sport climbing or find yourself in a more controlled environment, you might even bring along a combination of different quickdraw lengths, so you can be ready for any situation, even the most unforeseeable one.
The number of quickdraws you bring will depend on the length of the route you are planning to take. We recommend always bringing a few more draws than you think you need. Oftentimes once you get on the wall you find a use for extra draws for added protection, one that you couldn’t see from the ground.
The good thing is that guidebooks will usually list the number of bolts on a route, so if you are going sport climbing you will have your work set out for you. For traditional climbers, on the other hand, experience and practice will play a big role, but consider that routes longer than 30 meters usually require between eight and nine quickdraws, taking anchor-building and changing over into account, while some may even require 12. If you’re just starting on smaller climbs, you probably won’t need more than six draws, to begin with.
Quickdraws and carabiners have to undergo an extensive array of tests before they can hit the stores. One would expect nothing less from products that are designed specifically to keep you as safe as possible on a climb. Most quickdraws will be rated to carry weights around 5000 pounds when properly loaded, so you never have to worry about one of them suddenly dropping you.
There are a few other interesting numbers to keep in mind though, which can give you a better idea of the strength of the individual parts. On carabiners, you will find three numbers, the major axis strength, the minor axis one, and the open gate strength.
The major axis is the one that runs parallel to the longest side of the carabiner and is the strongest because it will sustain the most amount of weight. The minor axis is perpendicular to it, while to open gate strength tells you the strength the biner has when its gate is open.
These three pieces of information will give you a much better idea of the actual strength of the carabiner.
Q: How Many Quickdraws Do You Need?
The number of quickdraws you take with you will depend on the length of the route you are climbing. For sport climbers, the number of anchors is usually listed, so it is easy to know, but traditional climbers prefer staying on the safe side and bringing a few more, just in case. Remember, however, to not burden yourself excessively, you still need to move once you are up on the rocks.
Q: What Are Quickdraws Used For?
Quickdraws are used to connect your rope, the one that is fastened to your harnesses and kept tight by your belay partner, to the anchors that are fixed on the rock wall. They are an essential piece of equipment for any climber since they keep you safe and tied in as you move around the wall.
Q: How Long Do Quickdraws Last?
Quickdraws usually last for several years without any problems but much will depend on how much you use them. Inspect the carabiners for cracks or chips and make sure they close correctly to know if they still are as strong as they were when you bought them. For the dogbones, be more cautious and just replace them every three to five years, since the signs of wear, such as prolonged exposure to UV light, are much harder to spot.
Q: How Do You Store Quickdraws?
For storing quickdraws you should apply the same care as storing all your other climbing gear, such as harnesses or shoes. Keep them in a clean, dry place to minimize the impact of moisture on their strength. If you need to carry them from one place to another, you can conveniently clip them all to a singular locking biner or sling.
Q: How Much Weight Can A Quickdraw Hold?
Quickdraws are built for strength, so you will rarely have to worry about one breaking because of your weight if used properly. Most of them can hold weights of up to 5000 pounds. The strength mostly depends on the carabiner's major axis, and each model will list the maximum load they can sustain.
Globo Surf Overview
Clipping quickdraws to bolts and attaching your rope is one of the basic steps of climbing and something that everybody, even inexperienced beginners, immediately associates with the sport.
The options on the market are many and all are slightly different, unlike what one could expect judging by the apparent simplicity of the tool. We hope this article has helped you clear up your mind if you’re an amateur, or just showed you the latest and greatest options if you’re a seasoned pro. In any case, by following our guide you can be sure to make a good choice and select a draw that will be part of your gear for many seasons to come.