As a climber, there’s a lot of protective gear or “pro” that helps to keep you safe and secure when trad climbing. However, to ensure that you are safe, you must know this gear like the back of your hand and have the proper skill to place it when leading. Climbing nuts are one critical type of protection.
The best climbing nuts are designed to offer passive protection when you lodge them in the cracks of rocks. They feature small distinctive designs in different sizes to easily jam into corresponding crack sizes. Once attached, they effectively work to dissipate force and power to catch a fall while you’re climbing.
Listed below are the 8 best climbing nuts in 2021. Each of these offers unique features and designs. The choice is yours to go for a set that works best for you.
OUR TOP PICK
DMM Alloy Offset Climbing Nuts
- What Makes This Climbing Nut Stand Out
- Asymmetric shape provides a stable hold on irregular and flared cracks
- The design allows for placement in two orientation
- Easy identification with color-coding
- Grooved face design enhances protection no matter the conditions
Weight per nut: 0.099 lbs.
Strength: 12KN
Range per nut: 19.4 – 25.1mm
EDITORS CHOICE
DMM Walnut Climbing Nuts
- What Makes This Climbing Nut Stand Out
- Two distinct designs in large and small
- Grooved and tapered face to sit stably on any surface
- Color coding for easy identification
- Stiff mounting wires for no-slip overhead placements
Weight per nut: 0.035 – 0.15 lbs.
Strength: 7 – 12KN
Range: 11 – 25.1mm
BEST VALUE
DMM Wallnut Gold Style Climbing Nuts
- What Makes This Climbing Nut Stand Out
- The curved and narrow design offers a stable placement without lifting out
- Can be placed in two orientations for increased versatility
- Color coding for easy identification to properly attach to your harness
- Improved security on irregular and flared surfaces thanks to grooved face
Weight per nut: 0.066 lbs.
Strength: 12KN
Range: 11 – 17.6mm
- What Makes This Climbing Nut Stand Out
- Lightweight aluminum alloy construction
- Extendable sling to cut down rope drag and weight
- The shape allows for placement on multiple orientations
- Ideally designed for parallel-sided crack protection
Weight per nut: 0.32 lbs.
Strength: 14KN
Range: 54 – 71mm
Black Diamond Stopper Climbing Nuts
- What Makes This Climbing Nut Stand Out
- Lightweight and durable aluminum alloy heads
- Durable and weather-resistant galvanized steel cables
- Transverse taper for added versatility
- Rounded edge designs allow for easy cleaning
Weight per nut: 0.17 – 1.04 lbs.
Strength: 2 – 10KN
Range: 9.1 – 35.1mm
DMM Peenut Climbing Nuts
- What Makes This Climbing Nut Stand Out
- Passive protection design to prevent falls even in wet or icy conditions
- Micro protection design to protect smaller and fragile cracks
- Large surface area effectively dissipates exerted forces
- Asymmetrical taper design for stable placements
Weight per nut: 0.018 – 0.04 lbs.
Strength: 4-8KN
Range: 6.5 – 13.9 mm
- What Makes This Climbing Nut Stand Out
- Crescent shape design for easy placement
- Grooved rounded edges for easier extraction
- Anodized color coding for faster and easy identification
- Lightweight aluminum alloy construction
Weight per nut: 0.026 – 0.12 lbs.
Strength: 4-10KN
Range: 7 – 33 mm
- What Makes This Climbing Nut Stand Out
- Copper and iron fabrication for great bite and strength balance
- Patented swage design with enhanced strength and flexibility to prevent fraying
- Headpiece molded into the cable for added durability
- Ideal for irregularly shaped placements
Weight per nut: 0.036 lbs.
Strength: 4-10KN
Range: 2-6 mm
How To Choose A Climbing Nut – Buying Guide
ShapeÂ
When choosing the best climbing nuts, shape is an important factor because it affects functionality. The majority of climbing nuts are built with a tapered shape. All four sides of the climbing nuts flower out at the base to the top of the nut. Because you’ll come across a variety of climbing surfaces, it is always best to have a wide range of climbing nuts on your rackÂ
Offset Nuts
Offset nuts are designed to hold in flared and irregular cracks, so by default they will not hold in all placements. Because of their shape, offset nuts hold better in flared cracks, fitting securely and accurately without risking pulling out. Especially if you are climbing on granite, it is essential to have these types of nuts with you.
Micro Nuts
Micro nuts on the other end are smaller nuts. Brass is favored for smaller nuts as it gives them a softer finish to jam into more fragile and smaller rocks. However, micro nuts are not as versatile because they cannot be run for bigger placements or sideways in cracks. Because of their smaller, softer, and more delicate fabrication micro nuts also don’t boast high strength ratings compared to large ones. Thus, even when you are carrying smaller nuts, you must also include large climbing nuts with you at all times.
Number
The best brass nuts climbing options should be purchased in sets. A minimal number of at least 10 nuts is ideal. This is because sets offer a cheaper and versatile option for you. This is also so you will have at least 10 different sizes of nuts that will come in handy in your climbing.Â
However, non-regular and specialized nuts such as offset or micro nuts normally come in smaller numbers. Typically, you will easily find offset or micro nut sets with only 5 to 7 pieces per set. Many manufacturers also give you the option of purchasing single nuts – mostly as replacements.
Place
Purchasing the best climbing nuts is not enough. You must also know how to place them. This means that you must also know which shape and type are ideal for which cracks. When placing a climbing nut, the size and curve of the nut must match that of the crack, and you must always be ready for the nut to be pulled in direction of the fall. To easily practice nut placement, walk along the bottom of the rock face and find the ideal crack to attach the nut. You can also seek help from a professional or climbing buddy with experience until you get the hang of it.
FAQs
Q:Â How Do You Place Nuts For Climbing?
To place nuts for climbing, simply find a crack to place the nut as you climb. Ensure the size and curve matches the shape of the nut and then place the nut. Ensure the nut is secure, then clip a sling and carabiner it. Occasionally climbers will give pieces a short tug to check that they are secure and fit them more securely in the crack.
Q:Â What Are Stoppers Used For In Climbing?
In climbing, stoppers are used for protection by lodging them into a crack in the rock. A stopper is essentially another word for “nut” and it offers passive protection by holding your power and force when you fall, via jamming into natural slots in the rock. Stoppers are made of metal or metal alloys which provide their protective strength.
Q:Â How Do Climbing Nuts Work?
Climbing nuts work by providing passive protection, unlike cams that provide active protection. Climbing nuts are placed in properly identified crack slots in rocks. After placement, climbing nuts are then used to dissipate force and power when you fall when you are climbing.
Q:Â When Should I Retire Climbing Nuts?
The retirement of your climbing nuts depends on several situations. If they are not used consistently, climbing nuts can retire after 3-10 years of use. If you use them frequently, they should be retired after a year or less depending on the quality. After a fall with extreme loads or damage, you should immediately get rid of the nuts.
Globo Surf Overview
These climbing nuts reviews provide an outline of how useful they are for your climbing experience, whether you are beginning to explore the sport or are a seasoned climber. Climbing nuts help to provide protection and enhance your safety as they ingeniously work effortlessly. The buying guide above provides a detailed guideline of what to look for when choosing the best climbing nuts to invest in as well as why they are important. And the list of the 8 best climbing nuts above is an excellent place to begin your search for your next set.
